FashionFame

This time, Francisco Costa displayed his signature brand of arty minimalism in a sensuous way. He replaced dark colors and sharp angles of his Fall lineup with soft, organic shapes and light-reflecting neutrals. His spring collection for Calvin Klein was more sensuous than blatantly sexy, and more youthful in feeling than his previous efforts.

Collection kicked off with an array of white dresses. Costa created interesting textures like smocking and puckering cotton voile for an A-line shift, or hand-pleating and pin-tucking for organdy dress. Costa played natural off techno, and sheer against opaque. For this he sent out mohair jacquard tank dresses, shaded from black to brown to gray and revealed subtle swaths of skin.

The only departure from show’s earthy palette was a group of asymmetrical shifts and crinkled silk-cotton tank dresses in shades of pale aqua, coral, citron, and jade. The weightless ease of all dresses from this collection has an undeniable appeal; and this was a serene beauty of a collection from Costa.

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