Spring 2010 Collection presented by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli for Valentino, couldn’t have been more different from their gracious RTW debut of just over six months ago. The duo is now designing with a new Valentino generation in mind, one who likes short party dresses, ruffles and isn’t afraid of sheer.
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There wasn’t any red dress in sight. Instead, Piccioli and Chiuri romanced with soft tones of nude, gold, rose, lavender, and gray that have become big color story of the season. Their methods included swirling organza around body tying it off with a flamboyant bow, embroidering tulle T-shirt dresses in geometric metal palettes and antique laces, and printing chiffon with black orchids.
A couple of minis embellished with laser-cut rosettes and fitted leather jackets provided a bit of edge. London-based milliner Philip Treacy created some fanciful footwear with lace wings arcing upward from the heels. In sum, this was a well-timed step forward for Valentino’s new duo, that put the brand at the center of some of Spring’s key trends and started to give it a new relevance.