Autumn leaves and arctic birds fluttered their way across Erdem Moralioglu’s slim silhouettes for a low-key and poetic collection at London Fashion Week. Moralioglu’s inspiration this season came from some very disparate sources like nostalgia for his adolescence in Canada, along with memories of schoolgirls in sweaters and short skirts and her twin sister Sara’s documentary film on Arctic.

Erdem pulled colors from fall and arctic together to create his best collection to date. The show featured those famous printed silk dresses, but to a lesser degree than his previous seasons.


Prints were the main focus, as they came punctuated with lace, leather and wool pieces. It also featured much more outerwear than before, ranging from hand-painted aubergine cashmere cape that opened the show, to a slim-fitting, belted leather trench buttoned up to the neck with a shearling hood.


But, as always with Erdem, dresses were the main event of the show. Short-waisted shift shapes in quilted silk and long sleeved figure-hugging lace dresses were worn with snug silk polo necks or neat, buttoned-up boyish shirts. The most divine 1930’s inspired high-necked gowns in amazing prints attracted everybody’s attention. The best among those gowns was an abstract design that proved to be a flock of swallows on a closer inspection.


High-heeled boots by Nicolas Kirkwood in Erdem’s fabulous prints were really awesome. The music, by Michael Nyman worked perfectly with clothes and understated elegance of show space – The Macmillan Hall at Senate House. Models walking down the stairs was something new to this and some previous season runway shows.


This collection was elegant, but had edge; and was grown up. At the same time it was youthful; and wearable, but in no way boring. We loved the contrast of prim boyish shirts under exquisite, utterly feminine lace dresses. What do you think? Discuss with us at Fashion Community.
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