Fashion Fame

New York Fashion Week’s third day was kicked off with a nonchalant collection by designer Christophe Lemaire for Lacoste Fall 2010. Taking inspiration from photos of founder and tennis champ René Lacoste, collection played opening passage with cozy wears.

Lacoste is happily expanding its sporty offerings for women including a few overt polo shirt references. There was a striking new sophistication in oatmeal, stone-toned pieces such as oversize outerwear wrapping, sharp jerseys and flannels for boys and slouchy, sexy knits for girls. Slouchiest among all of them was an alpaca hand-knit worn over rah-rah shorts.

But chic neutrals were soon replaced by an orgy of primary color-blocking and a different decade of inspiration. The Lacoste croc sparkling gold on backdrop was a cue and so were ponytails pulled aside. There was a strong eighties feel to a fuzzy sweater dress sliding off one shoulder, jumpsuits in red, and ribbed leggings that were worn with almost everything.

Models were bunched with over boots in a way that reminded us of Jennifer Beals. There were notable echoes of other style statements from fashion’s favorite decade such as sweatshirt dresses said Benetton; green jacket with black skirt, yellow tights, and pink gloves could have jumped straight out of a Bill King spread for Enrico Coveri; striped jersey dress summoned up spirit of Sonia Rykiel.

Oversized cream cocoon sweater over long leggings with thick-ribbed cuffs; cerise tunic with huge, deep red knit cowl, and layered over leggings were among the top looks. Accessories included chunky-heeled hybrids of desert boots and brogues, close-fitting cloche, beret-like hats or lopsided cloche hats, wrapped fabric belts with two plump pom-poms apiece.

The vivid color palette including jade, canary yellow, fuchsia, crimson was best when layered or colorblocked in unexpected patches. The collection was a wholesale optimism and sporty joie de vivre.

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