Fashion Fame

As crowd settled into frigid Grand Palais at Paris Fashion Week, Yves Saint Laurent show turned up with phrases like “A new tailored sportswear” and “A classic Parisian bourgeois sensibility.” These phrases could well be the branding language for fall collection as a whole. Stefano Pilati, the designer for collection stated that, YSL Fall 2010 collection was inspired by seashells. And designer’s influence was informed through subtle prints and circular cuts that flaunted throughout collection.

Yves Saint Laurent is trying to reach to new generation. Theme of this collection also found to be quiet echo in spiraling Lesage embroidery at shoulders of printed shifts and long, gauzy white dress. Pilati strong suit which could last several seasons as of tailoring, silk cocktail dress and unlined jacket topped over bustier dress were a real classic. YSL has reworked with a shawl collar and trumpet cuffs.

This collection was sometimes tricky to fathom. It was best in simplest and strongest pieces: seventies-influenced shapes, like high-waist flared trousers, capes, elbow length gloves, mid-calf skirts, smart slash-sleeved jacket, and jumpsuits. All ideas look timely in context of fall fashion trends.

The sober caped black forms, starched white cotton, wimplelike head coverings, and hoods gave a nunlike impression. Granted, it wasn’t literal, but there was something of Catholic convent in high white dog collar on a suit, the yoked white blouse with full sleeves, the prim and modest mid-calf dresses.

Throughout the collection, the attention seekers were the heavy chain pendants in metallic gold and the YSL shoes. Figures dangling on gold chains that swung and bumped on lower body of models was highly inspired from silhouettes of Saint Laurent fashion photos which the designer had cut out of seventies magazines.

Pilati maintained the YSL’s “something different” pattern this time too in the footwear. There were pumps as usual but in a velvety touch that were given a spiky look in an intelligent way. A new move, well done Pilati.

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